I am careful not to say too much on this blog because I am learning. And will continue learning. Take these posts for what they’re worth: my experiences and observations. Each person in Bethel has a different experience and everyone and their three dogs has been here longer than I have, many for thousands of years, lifespans, and generations.
I ran into someone the other day on the way home who’s been in Bethel for seven years. He said, “It’s sad here. Something sad happens everyday.” It started to rain. He looked over at me and offered to call me a cab. I declined and traversed the tundra home, thinking.
A native man who’s lived in Bethel a long time said that students who leave their homes in villages to come to college gain something in the Western world but miss out on parts of their culture. I heard a student say that they don’t want to go home anytime soon because they wouldn’t come back to school; they miss home too much and they are needed around the house. But their parents want them to get a college education.
I’ve seen lots of babies, many of them with young people. And there are so many dogs in Bethel. But that’s for later. Maybe an entire post devoted to The Dogs of Bethel.
I’ve heard lots of talk about the effects of climate change: the first frost used to be in early August, now it takes place in late September. Winters are warmer, milder, the snow doesn’t always freeze and there’s more slush. The earth is eroding and the sea level is rising, encroaching upon coastal villages at a faster rate than ever before. The village of Newtok has requested and received federal funding to relocate. Newtok isn’t the only village requesting disaster relief aid. See links below for more information.
More and more, I have been considering the benefits of city life. I have historically been interested in a rural lifestyle and have never branded myself as much of a city person. As I continue experiencing life in a rural and remote place, I am faced with new and unforeseen challenges as I discover what this really means.
For starters, almost all perishable food items are barged in to Bethel because Alaska's Interstate Highway System isn't even close to reaching the city. A friend recently likened Bethel to an island. After considering that the only ways to reach Bethel are by plane and boat, I agreed.
A side note about barges: when I was hired in April, my supervisor said he had ordered 10 fat tire bikes for the dorm students. That was April. It’s now September and the bikes (the barge) arrived two weeks ago. The wait can be real. Did I mention how cool fat tire bikes are?
Because the act of getting things to Bethel from the Lower 48 is so challenging, prices soar in bush Alaska. Additionally, since healthy and alternative food choices are less accessible in this region due to cost and/or plain unavailability, the only people who eat these foods are those who can afford them (*gasp* it's the same inequity and narrative surrounding social determinants of health that exists all across the U.S.). This access (or lack thereof) to foods and other necessities translates into access to health. I have been thinking a lot about this lately.
My housemates and I have been busy dog sitting, bunny sitting, cat sitting, and house sitting for people who are out of town. Those who have the means fly to Anchorage decently often. This is one way in which people attempt to lower their living expenses. 400 miles east of Bethel, people access healthcare (have major surgeries, receive chemotherapy, see a medical specialist), shop in the city, or fly to other parts of the United States. Many people spend a weekend in Anchorage to grocery shop at Costco and other stores with lower prices than Bethel. I’ve heard it’s not uncommon to spend $1,000 on groceries in Anchorage, board a plane to Bethel, check three or more large totes full of groceries (some in the refrigerated cargo, some in frozen) and sustain a household on these purchases for a couple months after the Anchorage trip. Almost any type of food can be frozen for later use and most people own body-sized chest freezers for this purpose. The JVs will be doing this when we go on a retreat in Anchorage at the start of November. Stay tuned for our first fight.
Additionally, recycling and composting services are resources that rural areas don't always have access to. In Bethel, I throw away food scraps because there is no municipal composting. I have considered starting my own compost pile, but we lack a steady flow of green, carbon-rich materials to sustain it. Bethel also lacks a citywide service that picks up recycling each week. Instead, people gather recyclables on their own and drop bags off at the few places around town that collect them. While paper, cardboard boxes, tin cans, and glass are not recyclable in Bethel, number 1 plastics (such as clear plastics like water bottles) and aluminum cans (from soda, beer) are.
One recycling drop-off location is the university. Every couple of weeks, I, along with students, bag recyclables by type: aluminum recyclables in light green trash bags and number 1 plastics in yellow bags. Once recyclables are bagged, I drive the university van to the airport and students and I drop off the bags at Northern Air Cargo. From there, bags are flown to Anchorage for processing. In Anchorage, a non-profit called Alaskans for Litter Prevention and Recycling (ALPAR) receives and recycles the plastics and aluminum. On the way back to the dorm, we stop at AM Coffee & Espresso, a stand near the airport and (arguably) the best “coffee shop” in Bethel (out of maybe 3).
While it’s easy to focus on that which Bethel lacks, I've found much more joy focusing on what it has. Bethel has an amazing community. I've heard so many locals say, "You can be as free or as busy as you want in Bethel. There's always something going on." So far, it's been more than true.
Each month, Bethel vendors and small business owners come together at the Saturday Market. The cultural center, the place where 90% of events occur, is filled with booths selling crafts, baked goods, books, clothing, jams―anything locally made or artsy. Last Saturday was the Bethel Fair, an event with games for kids, and Bethel’s Got Talent in the evening (like Britain's Got Talent, just smaller-scale, with a $50 prize for the winner). A couple weeks ago, I attended Taste of Bethel, an event where locals cook and sell various ethnic or otherwise meaningful dishes to share with the community. Around 30 booths were set up around (you guessed it) the cultural center with dishes from Salvadoran, Mexican, Southern, Vietnamese, Filipino, Korean, Vegan/Vegetarian, and more cuisines. I later read that over 1,200 dishes were sold (1/6th of Bethel’s population must’ve been there). I also recently went to an awesome concert. Pamyua (pronounced bum-yo-ah), a Yup’ik/Inuit/tribal funk/R&B soul music group came to Bethel. They mix traditional Yuraqing (Eskimo dancing) and drumming with modern sounds and make amazing music. Their website is listed below.
Speaking of Yuraq, I'm taking an Alaska Native dance class at the university (after making sure that it is culturally appropriate for me to be there). It's been exciting and interesting to learn more about Yup'ik culture through this ancient form of dance native to southwestern Alaska. Songs are sang in Yup'ik by the drummers, who are traditionally men. Male dancers kneel in front and female dancers stand somewhere behind them. As far as I understand, everyone dancing does the same motions. The songs seem to detail someone on a hunt for a specific animal, boating, or interacting with another human. The dance moves describe what is happening in the song. The other day, the professor said, "Okay, does everyone understand what's being said in that last line?" Everyone shook their heads yes. The professor then proceeded to give a short description in English of the meaning and dance moves. Everyone looked at me. I said, "I had no idea what that line was about. Thank you." We all laughed. I am very grateful to have been welcomed into the class.
Things at my service site have been going well. I’ll give another update on my service placement and more about how I spend my days soon.
A note about the dorm I spend a lot of time in while at service: Each Thursday in the dorm is Native Foods Lunch. Last Thursday’s lunch consisted of assaliaq (fry bread), corn, rice, musk ox spaghetti, moose soup, salmon, fish head soup, dried herring stored in seal oil, and akutaq (“Eskimo ice cream”—a traditional dessert made with tundra berries, sugar, and fish fat and oil; modernly made with Crisco with or without fish fat). I enjoyed everything. After I ate a herring dripping in seal oil, a student said, “Just wait 'til you try walrus”.
Two weeks ago, the sun was setting at 10:30pm. Tonight, the sun sets at 9:04pm. Darkness is approaching quickly as autumn arrives in the Yukon-Kuskokwim Delta.
For your curiosity
Newtok:
Pamyua:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z7U5GCrMWOo (Link to a good song & music video)
KYUK, local radio news station:
Hey Cathryn. I just want you to know....it's ALL about the dogs. Nice Aussies but I'm in love with the bull dog. Please send more pics and info. OMG, so cute. Oh, and I'm so glad you're doing well. Love, Mary
Hi Cathryn! Your mom sent your "BookClub moms" the link to your blog so we can now see what you're up to! Which sounds like a lot! What an incredible experience. I really loved Alaska when we there this summer. But that was with lots of comforts and hot showers :- ) . When you go to Anchorage in November, be sure to stop at Tidal Wave books to load up for the winter, then get a coffee at Dark Horse Coffee Company which is closer to town center. I think it's near the courthouse. The coffee and foods are delicious. Will look forward to reading more of your posts! Love and hugs, Betsie W.